Gerda is one half of a German-Egyptian couple whose restaurant has built a strong following with European residents and regular visitors to Luxor. The decor is homely, provincial European bistro, but the menu features both Egyptian specials (kebab and delicious grilled pigeon) and very European comfort food for those slightly homesick, such as goulash and potato salad.

This easy-going restaurant takes over the alleyway running between the souq and the street to the Karnak temples and adjoins the Nefertiti Hotel. Fresh, well-prepared Egyptian standards like fiteer (sweet or savory flaky pizza) and tagen (stew cooked in a deep clay pot) are served alongside good pizzas and salads, as well as more adventurous dishes such as camel with couscous. The young staff are both friendly and efficient, and the terrace is a great place to watch the world go by, or relax after shopping in the souq. The same menu is served on the hotel’s rooftop terrace, which has great views over Luxor Temple and the Thebes mountains, both floodlit at night.

The 1886 is the fanciest restaurant in the town center of Luxor, serving inventive Mediterranean-French food and a few Egyptian dishes with a twist, all in a grand old-style dining room of the iconic Luxor Winter palace. The waiters are in formal attire and guests are expected to dress for the occasion – men wear a tie and/or jacket (some are available to borrow from the restaurant). The menu changes with the seasons, but expect delicacies such as grilled spine lobster in a butter sauce, or risotto of prawns and truffle. Pressed duck is a specialty, and there is an extensive (and expensive) wine list.